They only take one string, but they are a bit harder to do. The X and Y axis however, are much different.
The Z carriage is slightly different, as it takes two different points to pull it up and down.
I also can't quite describe all of this well in words, so I'll just explain the basic concept behind doing the X and Y carriages. I know, not the most ideal material, but hey, it's workable. Here is a video demonstrating what it can do: The second approach was to take pictures of putting the sub-builds together. If you have Lego Digital Designer (LDD) and would rather use it, the "models.zip" file has all of them by the same number. So when I say build 2 of B1, I mean open up 1.html and build it twice. (All of which are in the "building instructions.zip" file) I'll reference them by B#. I've exported each sub-build as an html file and html files are each given a number. I'm using Lego digital designer to design some of the sub-builds. This is my first instructables, so I've decided to do the guide with a combination of two different techniques. I had to scrounge around for all the little pieces I need. Also, this takes a massive number of parts. That's why it's currently configured as a pen plotter. Since I have no extruder, I can't actually have it be a 3D printer. So, since another makerbot is up for grabs, I decided to do a second version of the printer. I originally wanted to create a lego 3D printer for the makerbot challenge, but wasn't able to finish it in time. Since I won an NXT 2.0 in the Toy challenge with this, I should be able to make another one for the next contest that features a Makerbot.
I'm working on the 3rd version printer, which should actually be able to print. Hello, thank you for looking at this! First off, a slight update.
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